You must neutralize caustic strippers after you’ve used them, so pick up plenty of white vinegar ahead of time if you’re stripping a larger surface area. Popular caustic strippers include Betco’s Extreme, Bolt Ultra Concentrated, and Fiberlock’s NexStrip. This stuff usually comes in a plastic bucket.
This type of stripper is the least likely to damage your surface. If you have primer on a model airplane, piece of art, or some other delicate surface, try using a biochemical stripper first. Citri-Strip is probably the most popular biochemical paint stripper, but SmartStrip and Franmar are great options as well. These strippers often come in plastic containers that resemble laundry detergent or insecticide.
Heavy-duty solvent will also work on wood or masonry, but this is overkill. When it comes to paint strippers, heavy-duty is typically code for high-VOC. VOCs, or volatile organic compounds, are pretty toxic so work in a well-ventilated area and put on safety gear when using this kind of stripper. Heavy-duty solvents include Dumond’s Peel-Away, Old Masters, and Klean-Strip, which is probably the most popular option. These solvents usually come in an aluminum can.
Lay a tarp down if you’re stripping primer off of an object or want to keep stripper off of the floor.
Most stripping agents are pretty thick. You may need to reload your brush every 4-5 strokes to keep it from drying out.
Heavy-duty solvents typically require thin layers. You won’t need to build up more than a 1⁄8 in (0. 32 cm) layer of stripper on the surface for this agent to be effective. Caustic and biochemical strippers often need to be built up in a thicker layer. Read the label to see how thick of a layer you need. Often, you’ll need a 1⁄2 in (1. 3 cm) layer of stripper to remove primer.
These sheets force the stripper into pores in the surface material. This is particularly important if you’re removing primer from brick.
You won’t see the primer falling off of the surface or anything. All the stripper does is weaken the primer to make it easier to remove.
The stripper will have hardened, so you can work in any order you’d like. You can peel the primer off in vertical or horizontal strips, or work in 2–3 square feet (0. 19–0. 28 m2) sections until the surface is entirely clean. You may need to use a wire brush after you scrape porous surfaces, like brick or concrete. This can take a while if you’re removing primer from a larger surface area. Unfortunately, there aren’t any easier ways to do this.
If you have a smaller object, you can soak it in the vinegar solution for 3-5 minutes if you prefer. Most heavy-duty and caustic stripping agents need to be neutralized. Most biochemical strippers do not. You cannot neutralize the paint stripper with water alone. This will only spread the acidic agent around on the surface. [15] X Research source
Any reading lower than a 6. 5 pH is considered too acidic. If the surface has an acidic pH, it means that the stripping agent left a residue behind. Your surface may weaken or discolor over time and you may get acidic residue on your hands if you touch the surface.
This is an important safety measure. If you don’t neutralize the surface, you must wash it off. If you skip this step, you could end up burning your skin the next time you touch the surface. Be careful if you’re working with mineral spirits. Wear protective eyewear and a dust mask. If you get any spirits on your hands, wash them thoroughly with soap and water.
You can open windows, turn fans on, or let an object sit out in the sun to speed this process up.
