Bouldering routes are short rock climbing problems that don’t require harnesses or ropes, and are a fantastic way to build your climbing skills safely, without complex introductions to belaying or equipment. Since these problems require no ropes certain constraints that come with roped climbing are avoided. Bouldering routes are great for learning to climb and are a fun way to climb although you lack the safety that you would have with a rope. Top-roping is what most people think of when they think of rock climbing. You’re tied in and scaling a large wall. In order to top-rope you’ll need a partner. If you’re brand new to the sport, check with the staff about “belay partners,” or boulder until you feel comfortable asking for a partner. [1] X Research source Lead climbing is another common type of climbing used largely outdoors to ascend routes of different lengths. In lead climbing two climbers, or the “leader” and the “follower”, are tied in to opposite ends of a dynamic rope. The “leader” ascends first, clipping into bolts or placing their own protection periodically. When they reach the top of that section of the climb, or the “pitch”, the leader sets up their Personal Anchor System, and belays the “follower” up. Lead climbing is a more advanced form of rock climbing and requires detailed training and practice.
Harnesses, clips, and belay devices are necessary if you’re top-roping. The remainder of this section assumes you are already tied in, or are bouldering.
To start, look for routes labeled 5. 4 or 5. 5 for top-roping or V0 or V1 for bouldering, which are good beginner ratings. (In Europe, Fontainebleau grades are commonly used. These grades start at 2a and goes up each number after each ‘c’ grade. ) The fear of falling and the fear of heights are perfectly normal human instincts. Remember, however, that you have a bevy of safety equipment, padded floors, and a knowledgeable person holding you up. After your first few slips, you’ll get used to it. Starting with an expert, even just a friend who climbs often, is a great way to break slowly into the sport.
Keep your arms extended. Let your weight hang low, gripping the hand holds purely for balance and bending your knees for power. Set your feet before moving your hands. Get good, solid footholds that you can put weight on. Keep your weight on your toes, not on your hands, by dropping your heels lower than your toes. [2] X Research source
Learning to read a route from the ground, visualizing where your hands and feet will go in advance, is an essential skill you can never start practicing too soon. The more time you spend gripping the wall, unsure where to go, the more tired you’ll get. The set of moves you use to get up a wall is called your “beta. "
Plan out your next few moves. Memorize what footholds you have coming up and think about which limb you want to go where. If needed, ask someone at the bottom for advice. Re-chalk your hands. Chalk runs off on rocks, so get some more. Shake out your arms. Let them hang and give them a good shake to dislodge some of the lactic acid that has built up.
Set your feet, knees bent. Shift your body weight the direction you’re headed. Step up with a foot while simultaneously grabbing a new hold with the matching hand. Re-set your feet and opposite hand. Repeat. [3] X Research source
Take rest breaks in between climbs. Don’t get back on the wall until your feel rested again. Stretch your forearms by clasping your palms in front of your chest and elbows out as if you were praying. Slowly rotate your hands down until they point in front of you to stretch. [4] X Research source
Belaying is when someone stands below the climber with the rope. They catch them if they fall, give them more rope as they climb, and lower them down slowly when they finish. [5] X Research source
Gripping the rope at your “arm’s length,” drop the bottom of the rope. Holding it up, you should have an upside-down “U” shape in your hands. Pinch the two sides of the U to create a “bite,” or small 1-2” loop. Wrap the bottom of your rope around the bite. You’ll cross over your hand so that the end of the rope is back on your side of the bite. Thread the end of the rope through your bite hole. Pull the end of the role through to make your figure eight. [7] X Research source
Make sure that the rope goes through both loops– the one on your legs and your waist, before tying in.
Note the path of the rope coming back towards you, from your figure eight. Slide the end of your rope exactly the same way this rope runs so that you have parallel ropes. Trace the rope up and over, then back through the figure eight. Again, you’re just trying to follow this rope line, create two parallel ropes for a double figure eight. When you’re done, the end of the rope should be pointing forward, following the rope up the wall.
Place your thumb on the rope, roughly 2-3" above the figure eight. Grip the loose end in your other hand. Wrap the loose end over your thumb twice, making an X above your thumb. Wrap the end around one last time, then feed it through the hole where your thumb is. Pull the loose end tight to cinch the knot down. [8] X Research source
Always have an experienced climber check your ropes when you’re first starting out.
You ask, “On Belay?” They reply, “Belay on. " You get ready on the wall and say, “Climbing?” They respond, “climb on. “[9] X Research source
You want as much weight as possible on your feet at all times.
As you get better, you’ll encounter overhangs and moves that require some serious finger strength. However, you’ll build this naturally as you progress towards harder climbs.
To practice, find a route with several holds just out of reach, or practice on the bouldering wall. Practice grabbing the hold with your arm extended so that you don’t feel any drop as you grip it.
Quick, focused climbing saves energy, as it prevents hanging on the wall and getting tired. Focus on your breathing as you move. Many people hold their breath as they try hard moves, but that just deprives your muscles of much-needed oxygen. As you develop a rhythm, breath into it as well so that you have regular, rhythmic breathing.
If you’re struggling on a route, ask another climber for advice. Your belay partner may have a great view from the ground, for example, of a move or hold you’re missing.
