Tins of shoe polish are available in a variety of colors, from browns to blacks to neutrals. Try to get a polish that’s as close to the original color as possible. Polishes are also available in both wax and cream varieties; cream polishes feed the leather and make it more supple, whereas wax polishes make the shoes more water resistant. If possible, get a tin of each and alternate between the two with every second polish. The soft cloth can be a specialized buffing cloth, such as a chamois or “shammy”, or just an old t-shirt. Optional extras include a polishing brush (used to apply the polish), a toothbrush or some cotton buds, sole dressing and a leather cleaner and conditioner.
Lay down some newspaper or old paper bags on the floor or work surface and grab a cushion or pull up a comfortable chair – shoe shining can take some time. If you’re planning on doing a very thorough job on your shoes, it is probably best to remove the laces before you polish. This way you can easily get at the tongue.
Leave the shoes to dry completely before moving on the next stage. If the shoes are very dirty or worn out looking, you may want to clean them more thoroughly using a leather cleaner and conditioner before polishing. [2] X Research source
If you are using an old t-shirt or cloth for this step, try to wrap the cloth tightly around your hand and use your index and middle finger to work the polish into the shoe. You may also want to shine the section of the sole between the heel and toe which doesn’t touch the ground, as this may be visible as you walk. Use a toothbrush or cotton bud to work the polish into hard-to-reach areas, such as the edges of the upper and the crevices in the vamp. Once you have finished polishing the first shoe, set it aside on the newspaper and begin the same process with the second shoe. Allow each shoe to dry for about 15 minutes before moving onto the next step. [3] X Research source
This step is necessary to remove the extra polish, while the heat generated from the quick strokes helps the rest of the polish to sink in. While an old t-shirt or cloth can be used for most of the steps in the shoe shining process, a proper shine brush is necessary for this particular step, and cannot be replaced by anything else. Make sure to use a different brush for each color of polish. Otherwise you run the risk of adding the previous color to the current shoe. Especially when the previous polish is darker than the current. You may want to use a clean cotton bud or toothbrush or cotton bud again at this point to remove any extra polish from cracks and crevices.
Some people advise breathing onto the toe of the shoe (like you would do to fog a mirror) before buffing to add extra shine. [4] X Research source If you like, you can also apply a sole dressing to the outside edges of the sole to give them a nice shine, but this is completely optional.
Allow the polish to dry for about 15 minutes before moving on to the next step.
The water is used to prevent the polish from sticking to the cloth and encourage it to stay on the shoes instead. Some people prefer to use rubbing alcohol instead of water.
Work from the toe to the heel, doing one side of the shoe at a time. Move onto the second shoe once the first has developed a nice even shine.
After this second polish, you should begin to see a hazy shine developing on the surface of the shoe. [5] X Research source
It is very important that you apply multiple light layers as opposed to just one or two thick layers – this allows each successive layer to build on the previous one, giving spit shined shoes their mirror-like finish. If you like, you can use a chamois or an old t-shirt to give the shoes one final buff before wearing, though this may be unnecessary.
Apply a few drops of rubbing alcohol to each shoe and work it into the surfaces using a cotton cloth. You should notice previous layers of polish rubbing off onto the cloth. It may take some time to complete this process and get the surface of the shoes evenly stripped, but it will be worth it for shoes so shiny you’ll be able to see your reflection in them!
Allow the polish to burn for a couple of seconds, then extinguish the flame by blowing it out or carefully replacing the lid. When you reopen the tin, the surface of the polish should be melted and gooey. Be extremely careful when using this method of shoe shining. Fire is dangerous and can cause burns. It may be best to wear a glove while doing this, and have a bucket of water close by in case of emergencies.
Take your time and try to really work the polish into the shoes in a smooth, even layer. Don’t forget to work the polish into any hard-to-reach cracks or crevices. If you need more polish, or if the cloth becomes too dry, dip it in the water and polish again.
Remember that it’s better to use multiple light layers of polish than one or two thick ones. Make sure that you let each additional layer of polish dry completely before moving onto the next. Shoe shining requires a lot of patience.
The flame should never actually touch the shoe, but should be close enough to allow the polish to melt. Never hold the flame over one spot, or it will burn the leather. Keep it moving constantly, as if spray painting. Stop once the polish has melted slightly and the surface of the shoes look wet. [6] X Research source Set the shoes aside for 15 to 20 minutes until the melted polish has dried.
